Why it’s time to visit Belarus now
Why Belarus? This was the first question my friends asked me when I decided on it. I have always taken a deep interest in Soviet history and was quite keen to see something that was both untouched and a reminder of the pre-Soviet era. Saint Petersburg, my last destination before Minsk is a beautiful city indeed but had changed considerably in the past three decades with Russia embracing western investments and mass tourism. Belarus seemed more raw and off-the-beaten-path given it hasn’t opened up to the West at the pace its western neighbour, Poland, has.
In addition to its Soviet history, I wanted to see the European bison. The European bison, an endangered species, is now only found in Bialoweiza forest, which spans Poland and Belarus. The Bialoweiza forest is also the oldest primeval forest in Europe. Primeval forests are essentially old growth forests that have evolved without human intervention. The key features of an old growth forest are large tall trees and standing dead trees. Being a nature lover, I never miss an opportunity to be in the wild.
Country Highlights
- Landlocked country, sandwiched between Poland, Latvia, Lithuania, Russia and Ukraine
- Belarus was part of the Soviet Union, until it gained independence in 1991
- Language: National languages are Belarusian and Russian, although the majority of people speak in Russian
- Currency: Belarusian roubles (1 USD = 2 BYN)
- Famous Belarusian people: Ralph Lauren (Founder of the brand Ralph Lauren) and Valentina Tereshkova (First woman to go into space)
Visa
Until 2017, it was quite difficult to get into Belarus as you needed a local person or company to sponsor your visa. In 2017, the Belarusian Government finally opened up their country to tourism allowing visa-free arrival for tourists from 90+ countries visiting for duration of less than 30 days. The only requirement is that tourists need to fly in and out of Minsk International airport.
You just need to make sure you have health insurance applicable for the duration of your stay, which will need to be shown to the immigration officer. If you do not have insurance, you can buy one on arrival, just before the immigration counters (my health insurance cost EUR 6 for 5 days). Allow at least 10 minutes in immigration. The immigration officials check passports thoroughly, page by page including using a magnifying glass. Also make sure you have a printout of your return ticket, as you will be asked to produce it.
How to get to Minsk
I flew on the Belavian airline from London Gatwick to Minsk international, which is the national carrier of Belarus. The flight duration is around three hours.
Is Minsk safe?
Minsk is one of the safest European capitals I have been to. I felt safe at all times, including walking at night. Use the general precautions in crowded areas and while travelling by metro, as one would do in most places.
Where to stay in Minsk
I always prefer staying somewhere central, especially when I am doing city breaks. I stayed in an Airbnb apartment in Praspyekt Nyezalyezhnastsi, which is walking distance from many of the tourist destinations. I paid GBP 50 per night for a one bedroom apartment in the centre of Minsk, which I thought was quite spacious.
How to get around in Minsk?
Minsk has a well-established metro system and a network of buses. The metro stations weren’t as elaborate and grand as the ones in Russia but a few metro stations are fascinating with their Soviet style columns and communist symbols like the sickle, hammer and star. The metro ride costs BYN 0.65 between two stations. Tickets can be purchased by card at the ticket counters at the station itself. You can also download the Yandex app (Russian Uber), which is reasonably priced. An average journey in Minsk by Yandex costs less than 4 BYN (2 USD). You can pay by either card or by cash.
Suggested two day itinerary in Minsk
In some ways, it reminded me of a smaller, less touristy version of Berlin. On the one side you have grand and grey Stalinist buildings and statues of Communist heroes from the 1950s, on the other side you have hip, artsy bars and cafes in Oktyabrskaya Street and Zybitskaya Street. I would suggest spending at least two days in Minsk. I am sharing a list of things I saw and did in my two days there:
Day 1
Stories
I started my day with breakfast at Stories café. It’s a nice cosy café with great options for breakfast and well-made coffee. The staff are friendly and speak good English. They have outdoor seating available as well, if you fancy sitting outside in the summer.
Church of Saints Simon and Helena
This red brick church stands out against the grey Stalinist buildings in the background. The church is located near Independence Square. The Church of Saint Simon and Helena was built by two Polish architects in the early 20th century. A rich noble in the memory of his dead children commissioned the construction. The church was used as a cinema hall and a studio during the Soviet Union. It was, however, restored as a church after Belarus gained independence.
Independence Square
Built in the 1930s, the Independence Square is a reminder of the Soviet era with a large boulevard, huge grey government house and an imposing statue of Lenin in front of it. For a moment, you feel as if 1991 never happened. The Government House of Belarus, previously called the “Supreme Soviet”, before 1991, houses the National Assembly of Belarus. There is also a shopping mall beneath this square (not that I visited it!).
Unlike some of the ex-Soviet republics, such as Azerbaijan, Uzbekistan etc., which got rid of statues of communist leaders and symbols, Belarus kept theirs as they consider it part of their history. For many of the ex-Soviet republics, Communist statues and symbols were part of Russian imperialism and getting rid of them was part of reasserting their identity in the new world order.
KGB
This is the successor organisation to the KGB in the Soviet Union. Belarus is one of the few countries along with Russia, which continued the use of the name KGB for their intelligence agency after the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991.
Post Office
Irrespective of whether you are sending a postcard, you need to visit the post office. It’s an iconic Stalinist building near Independence Square.
The construction of the post office is typical of the Soviet era with high ceilings, ornate bronze chandeliers, tall marble columns and stained glass arched windows. There are numerous counters located all around the circular floor with green marble columns interspersed between them.
Church of All Saints
The Church of All Saints is one of the most spectacular churches in Minsk. This is a memorial church dedicated to all the innocent people who lost their lives for the country. The Cathedral has five golden domes. The interiors don’t disappoint either. There are three altars dedicated to John the Baptist, the Holy Mother and the Saints. Although it is not the most centrally located, you should consider dropping into this gorgeous church if ever in Minsk.
Admission: Free
“Pesochnitsa” (Food trucks by Horizont plant yard)
If you are visiting in the summer, pass by the Horizont plant yard. This deserted industrial backyard is a lively area in the summer with food trucks serving many different cuisines, live concerts and pop-up bars. They have multiple benches in the shade in case you want to enjoy a snack and take a break from your morning sightseeing.
Oktyabrskaya Street
Oktyabrskaya Street is a clear contrast from the serious Stalinistic monuments in Independence Square and shows you the new side of Minsk. It’s amazing how a run-down factory district of Minsk has been converted into a vibrant hipster area with colourful and creative murals, bars, cafes and outdoor trucks. In some ways, it reminded me of Shoreditch in London.
The closest metro station to Oktyabrskaya Street is Pervomayskay metro station.
Dinner at Kuhmistr
I ended my day with a lovely meal at Kuhmistr.
This is the place to go if you want to try authentic Belarusian cuisine. I had the Lamb Pelmeni (Belarusian dumplings) and Draniki (meat stuffed pancakes), both which were delicious. I went for the Cherry Vareniki for my dessert (Russian/Belarusian cherry dumplings). I had previously tried it in Kiev and had been craving them for a while. Oh yes, they also have live Belarusian music in the evenings as well, which adds to the experience.
Day 2
Café 26
I really cannot start my day without a cup of good coffee. I had heard great reviews about this place and it didn’t disappoint. Café 26 is a quiet coffee house in a Soviet era building. It’s a popular spot with young people and professionals. There are alternative brewing methods available here. I went for the Salvador Filter coffee which has a beautiful sweet lingering taste. Minsk, in some ways, is a city of coffee lovers. I noticed one thing in Minsk that the cafes here really invest time and effort in sourcing the best quality of beans, brewing techniques and equipment. Not forgetting the croissant, which was so soft and hot!
Kamarouski Market
If you want to see an authentic Belarusian market, this is the place to go. Kamaouski Market is considered the best place to buy Belarusian food products. Even if you weren’t planning to buy anything, I would still recommend visiting this bustling market to soak in the local culture and experience day-to-day life in Minsk. They have an indoor market dedicated to meat products, baked goods, honey and milk products, whereas the outdoor market is for seasonal fruits and vegetables. The layout of the market is very similar to what you would find in ex-Soviet republics. The fruits and vegetables market, in particular, has a lot of character with colourful fruits, berries and vegetables on display and rural women with headscarves selling their produce.
Opening times: The market is open everyday from 9 am – 7 pm, with the exception of Mondays.
National Opera and Ballet Theatre of Minsk
I didn’t manage to see any performances during my stay in Minsk given the theatre is closed most of August due for summer holiday. I was content with sitting next to the fountains and admiring the exterior of this imposing Soviet style opera theatre after walking in the scorching heat.
Minsk Botanical Gardens
If you have had enough of the Stalinist architecture and monuments, visit the Botanical Gardens. I never realised that the Botanical Gardens in Minsk is the largest of its kind in Europe. It’s a landscaped park, which includes plants from all over the world. There is also a lake with swans and ducks. The park features wide shady paths through wooded avenues with plenty of benches to sit and rest.
Opening times: Minsk Botanical Gardens is open everyday from 10 am till 8 pm, with the exception of Mondays.
Admission: The entry fees is 7 BYN per person.
Gum Department Store
Gum (pronounced as Guum) is a chain of department stores found in a number of cities, part of the former Soviet Union. The construction of the first Gum store was commissioned by Catherine II in the late 18th century. After the Russian revolution, all Gum stores were nationalised. The Gum departmental store is one of the last few remaining stores from the Soviet era in Minsk. The store with its expansive marble floors, patriotic Soviet pillars, ornate metal work and communist stars along the railings takes you back into the Soviet era. Unlike modern day stores, Gum has multiple shop assistants easily identifiable by their uniform. If you are looking for a real immersion in Soviet history and culture, Gum should definitely be a part of your itinerary if you are in Minsk.
Victory Park & Lake
As the day draws to a close, I would suggest strolling through Victory Park followed a boat ride in Komsomolsk Lake at sunset. Victory Park is the largest park in Minsk surrounded by Komsomolsk Lake at its edges. This park was built by the Soviet administration as a tribute to the soldiers who lost their lives in WW2. It’s a well-maintained park with nice pathways in wooded areas.
You can hire a pedal boat for BYN 8 for one hour in Komsomolsk lake as the sun sets. A perfect place to unwind and reflect on your day!
Traktarny Zavod
If you have time and want to get a feel of a typical socialist neighbourhood, dating from the Soviet era, take the metro to Traktarny Zavod. It’s a typical socialist town from the 1940s. Traktarny Zavod was built as a residential area by the Soviet administration for workers in the tractor factory. If you didn’t know, tractors are one of the major exports of Belarus and are used in many countries.
Closest metro station: Traktarny Zavod
Zybitskaya Street
End your day by taking a stroll in the cobbled streets of Zybitskaya Street. This is the heart and the most vibrant part of the city. In some ways, this part of town has a more European feel as opposed to the Soviet areas. Here, you will see live street music, hip and fashionable bars and busy restaurants.
Brest & Bialoweiza Forest
How to get there
There are regular trains from Minsk Central to Brest. The fastest train takes around 3 hours. You can book your tickets directly on the Belarus railways website link below. My ticket including return costed around BYN 25 (~ USD 12.50). I found the trains in Belarus to be clean, comfortable and very punctual. There is no café inside the train so make sure you arrange food for journey in case you need it.
Bialoweiza Forest is located 60 km from Brest. There is a taxi rank at Brest train station. Taxis from Brest to Bialoweiza Forest cost roughly 50 roubles.
Accommodation: Kamenyuki Hotel Complex
The hotel complex is located in the village of Kamenyuki. The rooms are minimalistic, yet clean and comfortable. The room tariff was BYN 102 per night, including breakfast (~ USD 51). There is free Wifi available in the hotel.
The staff is very professional and was available for any questions I had. Almost no one here speaks English but Google Translate did the trick! There is a restaurant nearby, in the complex. I have to admit the food at the restaurant was quite average but that’s not what I was there for.
There is also a zoo onsite where you can see various animals such as bison, deer, foxes, lynx and wild horses. Yes, you can see the bison from up close unlike in the morning excursions where you will see them at a distance.
Bialoweiza Forest
The best time to see the bison is at dawn, as the bison disappear into the woods shortly afterwards.
The lodge had arranged for the tour “Wildlife World” from 5 am-8 am with an English speaking guide. The tour vehicle takes you in the middle of the grasslands, which cut between Bialoweiza Forest. The best time to see the bison is at dawn as they are grazing in the grasslands at this time and tend to retreat inside the forest after the sun rises. Bialoweiza Forest spans Belarus and Poland. The European bison, an endangered species, is now only found in this forest.
The herd of bison grazing in the grasslands in the backdrop of mist and blood orange sky at dawn made the whole setting look and feel mystical. In addition to bison, I also spotted elk and deer in the early hours of the day grazing in the grasslands.
In the later part of the tour, my tour guide showed me a part of the Bialoweiza Forest itself. I also saw a 600 year old oak tree which had survived a major lightning strike. The lightning scar was dominant and visible on the tall trunk.
Brest Fortress and Memorial
Getting there: You can either walk from Brest city centre, which takes 30 minutes or take a taxi from your lodge in Bialoweiza forest which shouldn’t cost more than BYN 40 (USD 20).
Visiting war memorials hasn’t particularly attracted me in the past nor is it something I tend to include as part of my itinerary while travelling. The war memorial in Brest turned out to be an exception. The memorial complex is extensive consisting of a fortress, museum, sculptures, ex-Soviet military tanks and beautifully landscaped gardens. Built in the 1840s, Brest Fortress was occupied by the Germans in both the World Wars. The fortress remains a symbol of Soviet resistance for the local people here. You feel you are back in time as you enter the memorial complex, with the Soviet National Anthem playing in the background. There are a few military tanks from the Soviet Era. I really enjoyed climbing up one of the tanks and getting some photos captured. I was reminded of my time in Kiev in November 2018 where I drove a Soviet era military tank!
The two famous sculptures here include, “Thirst” and “Courage”.
Thirst
This sculpture depicts an injured soldier trying to get water from the river. The sculpture is a tribute to the bravery of the last remaining soldiers who defended the Fortress for many days without food or water.
Courage
Courage was probably my favourite part of the memorial park. This 33.5 meter tall sculpture depicts the head of an angry Red Army soldier frowning down at the ruins of Brest Fortress, which was destroyed by the Nazis in a surprise attack in 1941. I must say I have never seen such an expressive sculpture before. The face and the emotions look so real that I felt intimidated viewing it.
Admission: Entry to the memorial complex is free of charge.
If you are an adventure seeker like me and like obscure, off the beaten path destinations, its time for you to book that flight to Belarus. Minsk might not have the stunning palaces and cathedrals which St. Petersburg and Kiev offer, but it’s certainly one of the most underrated European capitals. It’s only a matter of time before Minsk becomes another Riga or Prague. In some ways, you are transported back into time with Soviet era departmental stores, Stalinist monuments, statues and opulent post offices. Despite not being touristy, Minsk has a vibrant nightlife with trendy artsy bars and quirky cafes. If you are a nature lover, then you have to include Bialoweiza Forest as part of your itinerary. To top it all, Belarusians are very friendly people and will try their best to help you even if they cannot speak English.
Amazing blog Addi bhai will visit the beautiful country soon thanks
I am glad you liked it 🙂