Unveiling The Kingdom

“Why on earth would you want to visit Saudi Arabia? Have you run out of countries to visit?” Yes, that was nearly everyone’s reaction when I mentioned that I was visiting Saudi Arabia for Christmas. Unfortunately, the majority of the people prefer to remain in the dark when it comes to understanding this oil rich nation. For some reason, most people think that Saudi Arabia has nothing to offer other than oil and pilgrimage sites, which is certainly not the case. Saudi Arabia has a very diverse landscape, with deserts, canyons, mountains and even lush green coffee plantations! Not many people know that Saudi Arabia, like its northern neighbour Jordan, has Nabataean monuments and Martian landscapes similar to Wadi Rum with fascinating rock formations. The Kingdom, however, doesn’t get the same number of tourists given the country didn’t issue tourists visas until September 2019.

Saudi Arabia has a very rich history and culture with UNESCO World Heritage sites, forts, Arabian Nights style bazaars and great Bedouin hospitality!

Who should visit Saudi Arabia?

You should consider visiting Saudi Arabia if you..

1. Have a sense of adventure and like exploring off the beaten path places
2. Loved the movie The Martian and want to see a place like Mars
3. A fan of Arabian Nights and want to see rustic medieval era bazaars
4. Like a bit of history…

Country Highlights

• The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA) is the largest country in the Arabian peninsula, with Jordan and Iraq located to the north, Kuwait to the northeast, Qatar, Bahrain and the UAE to the east, Oman and Yemen located in the south
• Population: 34 million 
• Capital: Riyadh
• Language: Arabic 
• Currency: Saudi Riyal (1 USD ~ 4 SAR)
• The modern Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was established by King Ibn Saud in 1932 by unifying numerous tribes and regions in the Arabian peninsula
• Religion: The official religion is Sunni Wahabi Islam.
• Politics: Saudi Arabia is an absolute monarchy with King Salman being the current head of state.

Is it safe to visit Saudi Arabia?

There is a common misconception that Saudi Arabia is an unsafe country. If you have watched The Kingdom, starring Jamie Foxx, you would probably know that Saudi has had its share of issues with terrorism in the past, which the political establishment successfully dealt with in the early-mid 2000s.

Yes, the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is an ultra conservative Islamic country but that doesn’t mean it is unsafe. As long as you abide by local laws and remain respectful of Islam, Saudi culture, and avoid criticising the monarchy, you have nothing to worry about. Never did I at any moment feel unsafe during my time in Saudi Arabia.

Best time to visit Saudi Arabia

Saudi Arabia has an awful lot to see and do and everything is pretty much outdoors! Unless you like getting roasted in 45°C (113°F), I would suggest visiting the Kingdom in winter, preferably between November and February when it’s nice and cool. One thing to bear in mind is that Saudi has a diverse landscape and the weather can vary depending on where you are. I visited Riyadh and Tabuk province in the last week of December 2019.

Riyadh: Mostly sunny in the mornings ~ 20°C (68°F) but slightly chilly in the evenings ~ 10°C (50°F).  

Tabuk: Day temperature averaged ~ 16°C (61°F) with a low of 5°C (41°F) at night. Some parts of Tabuk like Jebel Al-Lawz were much colder at 10°C (50°F), so make sure that you carry a jacket!

How to apply for a visa?

Until September 2019, it was almost impossible to visit Saudi Arabia unless you were going on a business trip or pilgrimage. Now the Kingdom is finally issuing E-Visas to multiple countries, including to nationals of the United Kingdom. Please see the link below to check whether your country is eligible for an E-Visa. The E-Visa process is very straightforward and it takes less than 30 minutes, if successful, to get your visa approval (I got mine within 5 minutes of submitting my online visa application).

Link for E-Visa Application

Before you ask, yes, you can visit Saudi Arabia with an Israeli stamp.

How to get there?

There are really good connections to Riyadh from London with daily British Airways (BA) and Saudia flights to Riyadh. I flew BA from London Heathrow (LHR) to Riyadh which took ~ 6.5 hours.

Highlights of my trip

1. The Edge of the World in Riyadh

Probably my favourite place in the Kingdom! Felt really cool standing on the 300 m high cliff overlooking the vastness of the world. The vast plain you see below was actually a sea before the tectonic plates moved 150 million years ago!

2. Antique auction market in Souq Al Zell, Riyadh

It was like a trip back in time, perhaps like a scene from the Arabian Nights. Here you will find a number of antiques, such as Arabian coffee pots, brass vases, incense burners, vintage cameras and typewriters. The dealers, in their traditional outfits, are seated in a circle with many holding their prayer beads. The man conducting the auction was standing in the middle. The high pitched shouting and gestures associated with bidding made the auction process quite entertaining to watch!

3. Alien-looking rock formations in Hisma

It’s like something we would imagine on the planet Mars! The landscape here was totally unique. At least I have never been anywhere like this.

4. The Grand Canyon of Al Shaq

Another geological wonder created by the movement of tectonic plates in the Jurassic period. Staring down at the depression below literally sent shivers down my spine!

5. Being invited by Bedouins for coffee in Al Shaq

Probably the best local experience I have ever had. The Bedouins are a nomadic tribe found in the Arabian Peninsula, particularly known for their hospitality. Coffee with the Bedouins made my trip to Saudi Arabia complete! Read more about it here.

Please see my articles below to plan your trip for Riyadh and Tabuk:

Three days in Riyadh

Three days in Tabuk

Is it ethical to visit Saudi Arabia?

Many people refuse to visit Saudi Arabia given its track record with human rights and gender equality but, then again, based on that logic should we also stop visiting the United States for selling arms to authoritarian regimes, its controversial prison in Guantanamo Bay, China for its authoritarian oppressive regime and Sri Lanka for state sponsored persecution of Tamils? No, I wouldn’t say so.

Unfortunately, almost no country has a clean record. Having travelled to 51 countries across the world, if there is one thing I feel more strongly than before is that people, irrespective of ethnicity and religion, are the same. Most people are born compassionate and are kind by nature. If you give them respect and love, they will reciprocate. Yes, while one must continue to condemn political establishments when it comes to governance and treatment of minorities and women, I do not see anything wrong in visiting a place, appreciating its landscapes, history, and understanding its culture and people.

Three days in Riyadh

Riyadh is an interesting place! It’s neither as glamorous as Dubai nor is it as hip as Beirut! The city has two sides to it. One is the “wanna be” version of Dubai with skyscrapers, such as the Al Faisaliyah Centre and Kingdom Centre, and the other is the rustic medieval(ish) old town comprising of Masmak Fort surrounded by traditional souqs.

It’s definitely a good place to get to an introduction to the Kingdom, its recent political history and a perfect base for exploring some of the fascinating geological wonders like the Edge of the World, which can be easily covered as part of a day trip. I would certainly recommend spending three days in Riyadh. Please see my article on Three days in Riyadh for further details.

Where to stay

It’s hard to define the city centre in Riyadh. The districts making up Riyadh are quite spread out unlike London or Paris where you can pretty much walk everywhere in the centre. You have to take a taxi if you want to go from A to B in most cases.

I personally split my time between the two hotels below and would definitely recommend them:

Mid-Range: Crown Plaza Palace Riyadh  

You should go for Crown Plaza Palace if you are looking for a 4-star hotel that is reasonably central. This hotel is clean and well situated, with good facilities and well-designed rooms. They also have a Starbucks counter in the lobby.

Book here.

Luxury: Ritz Carlton Riyadh

The Ritz Carlton Riyadh is a former palace converted into a hotel. The grandeur of the hotel with its beautifully decorated ceilings, columns, statues and furniture is humbling. The hotel entrance, lobby and garden are very impressive. The interiors were top notch. The hotel has hosted kings and queens, US Presidents and Hollywood celebrities. What stood out to me the most, apart from the grand interiors, were:

a) Excellent Breakfast buffet! Loved the variety of fresh fruits available!
b) Loved the attentive service – very courteous staff I must say!
c) Luxurious Spa – plenty of modern facilities!

Book here.

Getting around

You can download Uber or Kareem, which works in the major towns of Saudi Arabia, including Riyadh. Thanks to cheap oil, taxis are quite reasonable in Saudi Arabia with an average ride in Riyadh costing less than USD 7.

Three days in Tabuk

Tabuk province is located in the northwestern part of Saudi Arabia, quite close to Jordan. The geological landscapes and rock formations, which define Wadi Rum in Jordan, are found across the border in Tabuk as well. I recommend setting aside 3 days for Tabuk, keeping Tabuk city (capital of Tabuk province) as your base for accommodation. Please see my article on Three days in Tabuk for further details.

How to get here

There are several daily flights from Riyadh to Tabuk including local low cost carriers such as Flynas and Flyadeal.

Where to stay

I stayed at the Swiss Inn, which is a 4-star hotel in Tabuk. The rooms are clean and comfortable. There is free Wi-Fi available at the hotel.  There is complimentary coffee and dates available for all residents in the lobby.

How to book?

Recommended Tour for Tabuk

I hired The Horizon Tours for a private tour. This was the best tour I had in Saudi Arabia. The driver, Mohammed, spoke perfect English and was very flexible with changing the itinerary as per my requests.

Common Misconceptions about Saudi Arabia

1. There is nothing to see in Saudi Arabia

Well, I hope my articles on Riyadh and Tabuk have changed your opinion on that.

I was definitely amazed by the spectacular scenery and the hospitality of the people, in particular the Bedouins. I am already thinking of returning to Saudi Arabia, as I really want to visit the Nabatean sites of Al Ula and the old town of Jeddah, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

2. Saudi people are arrogant

Unfortunately, this is a common misconception about people in Saudi Arabia.

I have met some of the kindest people in Saudi Arabia. I still cannot forget the warmth of the local Bedouins in Al Shaq who invited me for coffee and even danced with me in order to welcome me. They did all this genuinely without expecting anything in return. This experience with the Bedouins made my trip to Saudi Arabia even more memorable.

I wouldn’t say that locals in Riyadh went out of their way to have conversations with me but, having said that, I didn’t meet anyone rude either. Like any big city or capital, people mind their own business and don’t necessarily engage in small talk.

3. Women cannot travel alone to Saudi Arabia

Women are now allowed to travel to Saudi Arabia without the need for any male member of the family to escort them.

4. Women visiting Saudi Arabia must wear an abaya

Female tourists visiting from abroad do not require an abaya nor do they need to cover their head. They must however dress modestly given Saudi Arabia is a very conservative country.

5. You cannot travel to Saudi Arabia with an Israeli stamp on your passport

Yes, you can visit Saudi Arabia with an Israeli stamp!

6. Nothing grows in Saudi Arabia as it is barren land!

Thanks to natural springs, the streams in Tabuk province provide a source of irrigation for fruit orchards here. Yes, you find fruit orchards in Saudi Arabia (who would have thought?)! Here you will find mango, orange and lemon trees. The locals mentioned that the Prophet Muhammad, who spent a few years in Tabuk made a prophecy that the region would flourish with fruit orchards here in the future in return for the support which the locals had provided to him.

Why it’s time to visit Saudi Arabia now

Unlike its glitzy neighbours, i.e. UAE and Qatar, Saudi Arabia is still very raw. It’s authentic. Given its abundant oil reserves in the era of booming oil prices, the Kingdom overlooked its vast tourism potential until very recently. It’s unique landscapes, historical monuments and ancient villages are relatively undiscovered. Tourism here is probably at the stage Oman was probably 15 years ago.

In addition, there is no one to hassle you to buy souvenirs at tourist attractions in Saudi Arabia. If people greet you or offer to help, it’s genuine. Be prepared to be invited for coffee by locals, especially when travelling outside the bigger cities. As tourists in Saudi Arabia are rare, locals in the rural areas, especially Bedouins go out of their way to welcome you!

Many of the attractions I visited in Riyadh and Tabuk are still free to visit given the Kingdom is still trying to attract and build tourism.

Given the slowdown in oil prices globally, the Kingdom is investing big time in building its tourism infrastructure as part of its Vision 2030. Luxury hotel chain, the Aman Group, is developing luxury resorts along the Red Sea. The political establishment is also expected to ease some of the Kingdom’s strict laws including restrictions on alcohol in resorts being built around the Red Sea in order to attract Western tourists. 

Before the country is full of tourists and becomes another Jordan, I would suggest visiting the Kingdom (i.e. once the coronavirus crisis settles and it is safe to resume traveling). Saudi Arabia, along with Algeria, is probably the most off the beaten path country I have visited in the Arab world.